Friday, 26 October 2012

Derby, Kedleston, Chatsworth & Local Sites Revisited

Okay, I lied - I guess I will have another blog this week.  I wasn't going to but decided that covering our local trips and half term break trip in one blog post would be excessively long so here's what we have been doing this week. 

Last week I neglected to mention that we drove by the kid's schools to show them to Bob and Lona.  Kalle's school is well hidden so we only saw the front of the building.  Fortunately we were able to see more of Karl's campus type school setup with a short drive so both trips were nice.  I am a visual person myself so thought they would be interested in seeing the schools themselves.  Bob especially liked the suit coat and tie uniform that Karl wears (we saw them on some kids walking around John Port).

On Tuesday we checked out Derby Cathedral Quarter for a breakfast place and then a couple of attractions.  We would have seen more but I had to be at Kalle's school in the afternoon so it was a quick trip.  For breakfast we ate at Jackrabbits across from the Cathedral which I found out about from Cindy when the BHC went there for lunch one time.  Not exactly a US breakfast but much better than typical UK breakfast meals.

Dana Johnson Pic - Eggs, bacon (it's still really ham Dana), toast, rocket (green leafy weed stuff) and tomatoes.  Passed with the Bob's Seal of Approval Stamp - thanks Cindy. 
 

I digress but this cracks me up - apparently Carlsberg has some self esteem issues.
 
Second stop was Derby Cathedral (see previous blog trip link here).  Again I won't cover much since I've already written about it once but I did learn a few new facts on this trip from the interesting docents.
 

Tower was open today.  We'll be on the top in a few mouse clicks.
 

The wooden effigy on top dates to 1527 (medieval times).  The small cadaver underneath still creeps me out.
 

Bess of Hardwick's memorial.  We are going to Chatsworth later this week.


St. Katherine's Chapel was closed last time I was in here (Wiki link on Katherine) so I checked it out this time.  Read some interesting literature on St. Katherine below.  The 340 million year old stone is impressive I thought.
 
 
Not sure I want a flaming wheel firework named after me.


The cathedra or Bishop's Seat.  Ever wonder what is the difference between a cathedral and a church?  The cathedra of course!  In each Bishop's area there is one church that has a cathedra which makes it a cathedral.  Ever wonder why minsters aren't called churches or cathedrals?  Because they have monks praying in them whereas churches and cathedrals don't.  (Except for York Minster which is both a minster and cathedral as my smarty pants wife pointed out so I guess there are a few exceptions.)  Thanks docents.


From the plaque - the old church was taken down in 1722/3 so a new church was built.  The "firft" sermon was preached in the "new church" on November 21 1725 which led me to believe this pulpit was part of the old church and re-used in the "new church".  More interesting to me was we are still 50 years from being a country and they are tearing down their old churches.
 
We parted with our three pounds and signed up for the 189 step tower climb but since we had a few minutes to spare before the narrow stepped circular tower climb we popped outside to our next stop, Ye Olde Dolphin Inn (see previous blog post here).
 

Ye Olde Dolphin Inne dating to 1530 AD.  Building exterior is original according to the locals.  Inside has been remodeled after being damaged by a fire.


Inside the Dolphin.  You know a building is old when each room has its own fireplace.
 

Back to the cathedral and waiting for the climb to start.  The wrought iron black and gold screen across the church is called the Bakewell Screen. It is named after the nationally famous wrought-iron craftsman named Robert Bakewell who made the screen.
 

Derby Cathedral bell trivia  The oldest bell is from circa 1520 from a different plaque.


Derby Cathedral tower trivia.  Now I've been in both of Derby's 1530 AD structures.


Here's your Word of the Week Auntie "B" - campanology.


The oldest peal of ten bells in the world.
 

The view from the top of the cathedral tower.  Supposedly you can see three counties from here on a clear day but only two miles on a cloudy day.
 

Once we reached the top the docents pointed out all of the fog and then gave us a few more local and national trivia tidbits.  One of the tidbits was that England has very strict flag laws.  So on top of the cathedral tower roof is this St. Georges Cross pendant because a flag couldn't be flown here. 
 
On Wednesday we went to Kedleston Hall (check out my previous Kedleston Hall blog post here).  Kedleston is one of the nicer manor houses around and also within a day's trip distance so I brought Bob and Lona there to see it.  I have to admit it was as impressive the second time as it was the first time.  I won't go into the hall/family background since I covered it last time.  Bob and Lona really enjoyed touring the hall and learning/seeing the history with their own eyes.
 
 
Front of the hall.  Typical English winter day - overcast with occasional misting skies and cold winds.  Temperature between cold and not warm enough. 
 

Front "garden" looking out from the hall.
 

Tiger skin, he was laying on the billiards table the last time I was here.
 

Caesars Hall.  All of the columns were added to support the Marble Room above.  In a blog cross over Alex was with us today since he is out of school this week and needed a place to hang out while his parents were working.
 

I still find the cantilevered stairs fascinating.  The hanging man was a dummy while the costumed man was explaining Victorian era hanging etiquette.  Poor Alex would have been in the gallows with us, minimum hanging age then was seven years old.
 

The Marble Room.  Marble floor and alabaster columns. 


Between each pair of columns was statues on floor level and paintings above them.  Above the painting were 3-D mythological beasts posing.
 

The Music Room.
 

Typically impressive fire places framed by marble.
 

Close up from the picture above.  Not sure what to make of this bunch of angelic hooligans.
 

Check out the curved floor planks in this corridor.
 

The Withdrawing Room - where the women withdrew to after supper.
 

The couches are as impressive as I remember them.
 

As were the ceilings.
 
 
The doorways here reminded me of Versailles but not as opulent.
 

18th century reading chair.  The book holder folded down so the men could sit close to a poker table.


Entrance to The Saloon.  Not a great picture but if you look at the space in the doorway between the two doors that is how thick the block walls are per the docent.  The walls here were about two and a half feet thick.
 

Nice sized mirror in a bedroom.


Interesting curved doorway in the same bedroom.
 

I think James Duke of York shown here is who New York is named after when the Brit took over New Amsterdam from the Dutch and renamed it New York.
 

Dining Room table.


This old lady was head servant and spoke a little about her duties and life in the hall during her time.


In a trophy room were artifacts taken from trips to India and Africa.  This case is all ivory pieces.
 

Ivory chess pieces.


We also looked inside the church on the grounds.
 

Stained glass windows that reminded me of walking the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem.

 
Sir John Curzon who died in 1406.


Not sure who St. Chad is on the bottom left but he has his own church I guess.  On the upper left is St. Katherine who we learned about in the Derby Cathedral.  Looks like her left arm is resting on her wheel.
 

From the docent: This doorway is the oldest part of Kedleston.  It dates to 1130-1135 and was built by the Saxons.  It is a copy of Roman architecture which was common of the Saxons since they were good soldiers but bad architects.  The animal heads on the sides are wolf heads and are an example of Roman pagan images.  The scene above the doorway was thought to have been of my buddies George and the Dragon but it was never fully carved into the stone.  Speculation was that the mason may have died of the plague before completing the carving. 
 

Outside view of All Saints Church.
 

View of back door of the hall.  Pretty nice.
 
On Thursday it was a typically stellar English winter weather day so we were off again - this time to Chatsworth (read about our last trip to Chatsworth here).  Kedleston and Chatsworth are the two local manor houses that are worth the price of admission.  Bob and Lona liked both places (obviously) but strangely enough Bob liked Kedleston better and Lona liked Chatsworth better.  IMO (in my opinion for the lame-o-s) Chatsworth is better but enough blather so onto the pictures. 
 
The main complex from the road.  Cows in front, sheep in background; we saw the deer as well but the view wasn't picture worthy.  We toured the building on the right.  On the upper left in the trees is the hunting lodge. 
 

Sample marble floor.
 

Ceiling in the main corridor.
 

This cracked me up.
 

Impressive carving from the Oak Room.
 

Front of The Chapel.
 

Beautiful bust on a pedestal.
 

The main corridor.
 

One of the stairways.
 

Fireplace in the Great Chamber.  Note the animals are hung upside down signifying that the person in the middle was a mighty hunter. 
 

Wall tapestry in the Drawing Room.
 

A Da Vinci painting from 1503-04 showing Leda and the Swan from Greek mythology (from the room literature).
 
 
Just a case of gilded bowls and plates and stuff. 
 

Pictures adorning the walls in another stairway.
 

Pink urn that captured my eye.
 

Bed from one of the guest bedrooms.  One thing that surprised me about this house was how unimpressive the beds looked.  Looks okay but not as impressive as some places we have seen.
 

I loved this painting for some reason.
 

The Cascade surrounded by the fall colour.
 

The Study.
 

A veiled lady, one of the many eye catching sculptures.
 

Per the literature - the forks turned over is the French style from the early 1800's.  Why you ask?  Because the rich Frenchies were all wearing long sleeved frilly tops and the forks turned up would catch on their foofy wristed tops so they were all turned tines down.  
 

Slap some gold leafs on this door and we are starting to rival the Versailles Palace doorways.
 

The sculpture room.  This reminded me of when we first started this exciting adventure and Chatsworth was one of the first places we toured and Kalle kept complaining about the inappropriate (nude) artwork.  We've seen so much "inappropriate" artwork it doesn't faze any of us anymore.
 
 
Mars and Cupid.
 

The Cymbal Player.  Maybe hard to see in the picture but such impressive detail/texture on the goat skin and tree stump.
 

The Stables - it's time for lunch so off to the restaurants.
 

I'm sure everyone feels like this some days.
 

Not Bob's favourite soup (his family will get the joke).
 

Dana Johnson Pic - cheesecake with cherry topping on left (okay but strong cheese flavor) and jacket potato with cheese and butter on right (tasted pretty good).  Bob had the same thing and it qualified for his short list of favourite meals since he crossed the pond.  You know the food is bad when a couple of other items on his list were meals I cooked. 
 
After Chatsworth we drove to Chesterfield's Crooked Spire (quick pic and explanatory blurb here) to see it ourselves (thanks for the idea from your blog Steve).  We found it and took a few minutes to admire the curiosity before piling back into the car clown style (not really) and driving down to Ashbourne (see here for previous blogged trip to Ashbourne) where we drove past the market place, gallows frame, and Shrovetide football field before heading home.

The Crooked Spire close up.
 

Crooked Spire and church.
 

Jim Seppanen Pic - driving through the beautiful southern Peak District.  Tonnes of great views (rolling hills dotted with sheep and lonely farms, hedge and rock wall fenced-in pastures, horses and cattle lazily munching away, wooded dales changing colour, whole villages sitting in wooded valleys, tiny villages comprised of olden brown blocked buildings, brown scrubbed vegetation hilltops, I could go on and on...) but no pics as I was driving - sorry.
 
On Friday we stayed in the local area and looked at some older sights.  First stop was St. Wystan Church (link) in Repton, home of an 8th Century crypt.  The site has been used for Christian worship since 653 AD Repton was the capital of Mercia (Wiki link), a kingdom from the 500's to the 900's.
 
 
St. Wystan on left, neat archway on right.  The tower and spire were built in the 15th Century, you can read the "Our Church" link on the website to see the building construction time line.
 

Crypt background.
 

More impressive stained glass.
 

The stairway down to the crypt.
 

An 8th Century crypt.  Remember when Geraldo busted into Al Capone's vault?  Kind of the same feeling I had here but still kind of neat considering how old it is.  Worth a ten minutes stop on the way to The Bull's Head for the locals IMO. 
 

From Wiki: St. Diuma was a Bishop of Mercia, St. Tristan may be from Brittany in France (remember that Great Britain used to be called Greater Brittany and northwest France used to be called Lesser Brittany when Saxons ruled Britain), St. Guthlac was from Mercia and served as a monk at the Repton Monastery, and St. Chad was from Mercia and is credited with introducing Christianity to the area.  We saw him in Kedleston this week and he was holding a building there also but I am not sure what building he is holding. 
 

A modern narrowboat (Wiki narrowboat link), or English canal boat.  This one has was powered by a motor, they used to be pulled by horses who walked alongside the canal.
 

View of docked narrowboats along Mersey Canal in Willington.
 
After Willington was a ride through the Rolls Royce complex for Bob and Lona to see the massiveness of it and then back to Littleover for a stop at St. Peter's Church.  It is the Church of England church that we sometimes attend so we stopped for the Norman Door and original stained glass windows/walls.

Early 14th Century stained glass.  This glass and wall (and a couple other walls) are thought to be original construction dating to about 1340 AD.


The Norman Door, dating to 12th century.
 

View down nave of church.  The far end is the original part of the building.  You can see the Norman arch architecture along the sides and at end.
 

Stained glass close up.
 

A rare close up of a smaller stained glass section.  Usually I go for the larger, colourful windows but Bob pointed this out to me and I thought I would include it as a simpler window example.
 

My Latin is a little rusty but I can make out 1635 AD.
 
 
 Okay, now I am done until after holiday.  See y'all in a few weeks.
 
Thanks for listening,
Jay

Monday, 22 October 2012

Back to Bath and Stonehenge

Hello Readers,
Welcome back.  I didn't blog last weekend since we stayed home on the weekend to rest for our month of touring with Bob and Lona (my in-laws).  A few note worthy events happened last week that I will briefly cover before we move onto this weekend's travels though.

A combo Carol Seppanen Book Update/Auntie "B" Word of the Week entry.  I started James Joyce's Ulysses, 657 pages, this past week and my initial opinion is what a pile of rubbish.  Maybe I haven't had the time to get into yet but it is not an easy read so far.  I read somewhere that Joyce wrote the book as an intentionally difficult read and he succeeded.  I wanted to read it after our Dublin trip sparked the interest in me plus it is supposed to loosely follow Homer's Odyssey which I read in high school and thoroughly enjoyed so I thought why not?  Now I know why not.  But I will forge on and see if it gets any better.  It did provide me with this week's Auntie "B" word of the week though - ashplant.  Ashplant in this context refers to the Irish word definition.

The Better Halves Club met again.  This time we met at Shirely's place and there were six of us - the seventh missed as she was picking up her mother in law from the airport.  We all brought an appetiser or dessert dish and Shirley made curry which made for a delicious lunch.  (Sorry Dana I forgot my camera.)  The company was as engaging and comical as usual with Laverne and Shirley being the main entertainment.  The typical discussions range from comparing cultural differences to trip planning/info sharing to local sightseeing ideas to random topic conversations.  I have to admit it was a little tough saying goodbye to the four returning to the USA members this summer but our new group has settled into that comfortable group zone which is great.

Now where do I start with English service?  Restaurants, realtors, doctor's offices/hospitals, appliance repairmen... it is "different" than the US.  Not that the US is good service all the time across the board but c'mon England.  The "Dan Stine extreme self restraint in the face of surmounting adversity moment of the week" is dealing with my tumble dryer (clothes dryer for the Yanks) engineer (field service tech for the Yanks) and company the last few weeks.  A little background - we bought a used clothes dryer from a returning secondment couple when we came over so we knew it was two years old and well used.  We used it for almost a year and then the water tray wasn't always full of water after running the dryer.  (For the Yanks - clothes dryers here aren't vented outside, the water is pumped into a tray and the tray must be emptied after each use.)  I weighed fixing it myself or calling a repairman and of course picked the wrong option.  I called a local repair company and they were out in a couple days at which time the engineer diagnosed the problem as a shot drain pump.  I ordered the part through them the next day and waited a few days for them to call me back to schedule the engineer back out to replace the pump.  No call after a few days so I called back and found out the part was ordered but the part that arrived was wrong so it was sent back.  The last couple of times I've called they don't have the proper part and can't even track if the proper part has been ordered/shipped yet.  I knew I should have done it myself.  Next weekend will be a month without a dryer which means I am washing a load a day and hanging everything.  England can be SO frustrating sometimes.    

The Mark Elliott Pub Glass Pic - check out my newest member!  A Beck's beauty I found at a local boot sale for a paltry 50 pence.  Welcome to the collection my new friend.  Shout out to Mark's Brownies for finally winning a game this past week.  1 and 15 means first pick next year buddy - congrats!
 
Lori had a typical doctor's office experience this last week.  Her ears have been blocked and painful so she is thinking ear infection.  So we stopped at the clinic one night last week and after a quick thirty minute wait she was ushered in to be checked out.  She walked out a few minutes later looking not happy.  Turns out the nurse looked in her ear and basically said looks bad but no infection yet, come back when they are infected.  In the meantime use pain medication to treat it.  So Lori clarified that the nurse was telling her that it looks like it will get worse but she won't do anything to make it better.  Yup.  Typical English doctor's visit - reactionary treatment only.  Go across the pond for preventative medicine.  Load up your "English health care system is better than US health care system" argument Jim Lang - we will be loaded for bear when we return.
 
Welcome to England Bob and Lona!  My in-laws are here for a visit so we are enjoying their company for the next four weeks or so.  After a rough flight over and a couple days to catch up to the time difference they were ready for our first weekend trip - Bath and Stonehenge.  We have been to the area previously so I won't go into a long write up on anything or a lot of pictures but will include some of the pictures from our trip.  (See first trip to Bath and Stonehenge link.)
 
The first stop was Tintern Abbey in southern Wales.  Impressive in size it was a good introduction to a ruins site for them.  They also found it interesting plus it was a scenic drive down.

 
The kids and Bob inside the Abbey.
 

Looking down the centre, you can see a person on the right for a scale perspective.
 

Looking towards the centre of the abbey.
 

The impressive ruins from a distance.
 

Jim Seppanen Pic - Chinese Paperbark Maple.  Some trees are changing colour now.
 

Hard to see but the bark was like thin papyrus curls.  Very neat.
 

Our weekend ride - a people carrier.  Easier to drive than I expected.  A couple tight spots but not unwieldy on the streets.  I was worried about driving these over here but no worries this weekend.
 
After the abbey was lunch.  We tried a cafe but after waiting for ten plus minutes without being looked at (remember my English service comment above?) we went across the street to a tea room/pub/restaurant combo place (they literally had a separate tea room, a separate pub and a separate restaurant in the same building which was a first for me) for some decent food.  The highlight was the adults asking if the kids chicken fingers can be made into an adult portion.  I imagine us Americans are pretty obvious to others as we travel around asking silly questions.  They chuckled but did serve the adult portion.  Thanks Anchor Inn.
 
Adult portion chicken fingers.
 
 

Kevin Coleman Pic - bitter and dull and not chilled.  It's official, Wales beer is as bad as English beer.
 

Dana Johnson Pic - my first Shepherd's Pie.  Mince lamb, peas, onion, gravy, mashed potato, cheese - it was surprisingly good.  The cabbage and carrots side salad was good also.  Bob had the decent tasting adult chicken fingers but will taste some "proper" British cuisine later.
 
Lunch is over so its onto Bath.  We motored on over and checked out Bath Abbey and Roman Baths.
 

Double door for abbey although the entry is through a smaller side door.
 

And inside the abbey was a choir practise or something that limited access which was kind of a bummer although the view is still impressive from the rear.
 

More of my favourite "important person" memorials.
 
 
This guy was a US Senator, I don't remember seeing this last time.
 

Obligatory stained glass window pic.
 

Bath Abbey in centre, Roman Baths entrance on right.
 

View of the Royal Bath from upper level.  Note the emperor statues on the upper level.
 

Emperor Vespasian overlooking the bath.  Vespasian was in The Jewish War.
 

Side of Bath Abbey from the Baths.
 

Combo pic of Roman Baths and Bath Abbey.
 

Interesting.
 

The Gorgon's Head on the temple pediment.
 

See below.
 

From above.
 

We walked past the Pulteney Bridge (above) and also saw The Circus and The Royal Crescent but I didn't have a chance to take some good pictures of those two this time. 
 
After Bath we stopped at a country pub where Bob was introduced to English hamburgers.  I don't think he believed us that they tasted different than US hamburgers but he does now.  He ate about a quarter and tried pawning off the rest to us but there weren't any suckers, I mean takers.  Interestingly enough Lona had a burger as well and said it wasn't bad but wasn't crazy about it.  I guess both her and Karl are missing some taste buds or something.  We also introduced them to English breakfasts at the Holiday Inn Express on Sunday morning.  They passed on the baked beans but tried the boiled egg substitute and mushy sausage.  One bite of sausage and they were done.  Welcome to England Bob and Lona!  Bob commented that the cereal was good though.
 

Kevin Coleman Pic - an okay stout at the country pub.  I had an IPA before the stout that was dirty dishwater flavoured.
 
On Sunday we started out near Avebury Stone Circle so we made that our first stop of the day.  Avebury is less well known than Stonehenge but equally interesting in my opinion.  More circles with smaller rocks set in larger diameters, a little different but still worth a stop.  Bob and I checked them out and he found them interesting also.
 

Steve Frey Pic - so this was the purpose of the stone circles - sheep back scratchers.  Mystery solved!
 
 
Steve Frey Pic - A couple stone circle segments in the distance.  Foggy and soggy day starting out, the sun would come and go all day with a chilly wind at times.  Temps in the mid 50's F all weekend.  Decent weather, no rain so I was happy.
 

Steve Frey Pic - Avebury lawn mowing service hard at work.  A velvety horned ram is on the right.  You could hear them tearing the grass with each bite.
 

Steve Frey Pic - The black sheep of the family.
 
Onto the underwhelming attraction called Stonehenge.  I think most people see it and say, that's it?  World famous and five thousand years old is worth a trip but I think everyone expects more when they first see it.  No exceptions on this trip. 

Stonehenge.  Henge means hanging so this place is really called Hanging Stone for the curious.
 

From a different angle, you can see the country side in the distance.  This place really is in the middle of nowhere.
 

KK and KJ in front of Stonehenge.  On the right is the start of the three tour buses that pulled in after us so now it's getting crowded and the chilly wind comes to life so we headed back to the VW.
 
After Stonehenge was a trip through the scenic Cotswolds.  It didn't seem as picturesque as I remember so I'm not sure what road we took last time or maybe we weren't used to the country scenery last time we were down here.  Regardless, our next stop was Stow-on-the-Wold (tourist info link).  It is a charming market town now with many standing houses built in the 1600's.  Its history dates to the Iron Age although we didn't explore much of the town.
 

Charming buildings.
 

Dana Johnson Pic - clotted cream and jam scones with strong coffee.  We were going to stop for a snack until I looked at a local map and saw the next town was much smaller than Stow so after eating our dessert first we ended up ordering lunch.
 

Dana Johnson Pic - some places have very good scones with clotted cream and jam.  This place was my second favourite only to St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall.  Dee-lish!
 

Dana Johnson Pic - now after my meal planning blunder it's time for a proper lunch.  Ham and cheese with mustard on white bread was okay.  The crisps tasted salt free though so I have to give them a thumbs down.
 

Check out these roofs Dad - bowed roof on right and a humped roof on left centre.
 

I thought this building face was unique.
 
 
I thought this little vestibule was quaint.
 

This cute little dog was watching the street.
 

Next town was Chipping Campden.  I think this is Chipping Campden but not sure because instead of following the road signs I followed the SatNav.  So instead of ending in Chipping Campden we ended up at Country Road to Nowhere.  So we called it a Fail and drove up to Stratford-Upon-Avon then home for the day.  We didn't stop so no pictures this time.  Maybe we'll make it down there this winter.
 

Teresa Robinett Pic - how's Bear doing Teresa?  Bob and Lona are dog sitting for us on our secondment so now Teresa is dog sitting for them while they are here.
 

The last view of the Cotswolds on our way home. 
 
We had a fun sightseeing weekend with good weather to start their vacation.  A few local trips are scheduled this week then we're onto Scotland next week for the kids half term break which means no blog next week.  See you in a couple of weeks.
 
 
Thanks for listening,
Jay